Seitan O’Greatness
I don’t read many food blogs regularly; I’m have more of a search-for-an-ingredient-or-recipe approach to browsing the blogosphere. So I missed the whole Seitan O’Greatness epidemic that apparently raged through the vegan blogging world like influenza through a chicken factory farm. I first heard about it when browsing at Isa Chandra’s blog, and apparently since then the recipe has continued to fell every innocent vegan blogger it touches. What is Seitan O’greatness you’re probably thinking. It’s a seitan made from vital wheat gluten, mixed with lots of spices and other ingredients, rolled into a log shape, and baked in tin foil. What comes out looks an awful lot like salami, at least to someone who never looks at salami without squinting and crossing her eyes (to make it appear blurry and not as distinctly dead-piggish).
I made a version that combines a few different bloggers’ recipes, as well as my own experience with marinades for frozen tofu.
Dry ingredients:
- 1.5 cups vital wheat gluten
- 1 tsp salt
- 2 Tbs paprika
- pinch cinnamon
- 1/4 tsp cumin
- fresh ground black pepper
- pinch cayenne pepper
- pinch allspice
- 1 tsp garlic powder
- 1/2 tsp onion powder
- 1/4 tsp. ground fennel
Wet ingredients
- 3/4 cups water
- 4 Tbs. tomato paste
- 2 Tbs. soy sauce
- 1 Tbs. extra virgin olive oil
- 2 Tbs. natural peanut butter
- 1/2 tsp. agave nectar
- 1/2 tsp. liquid smoke
Preheat oven to 325°. In a small mixing bowl mix the dry ingredients. Whisk together the liquid ingredients in a large mixing bowl until the peanut butter is completely dissolved. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients. Mix well, then knead for just a minute or two.
Form into a log (6”-8″ long), and wrap tightly in foil, twisting the ends. Bake for 90 minutes. Eat immediately, or unwrap and let it cool, then wrap it in foil or plastic wrap and refrigerate.
My Notes:
Even with just a pinch of cinnamon, when I smelled the dough it smelled strongly of cinnamon, so I was surprised that the cinnamon wasn’t detectable in the final product. I couldn’t taste the peanut butter distinctly either. I was worried that my accidental use of 2 Tbs. paprika rather than 2 tsp. would be problematic, and though the seitan did have a strong smoky taste, it wasn’t overpowering. I might cut it to 4 tsp. next time though.
The texture was unlike any seitan I’ve made before–more breadlike, with a very fine and delicate crumb. The texture and flavor actually reminded me a lot of those fake vegan hot dogs you can buy at the grocery store (perhaps because of the smoke seasoning?). After letting the seitan cool the outside became a bit dry and tough—I liked it better more moist, as it was right when it came out of the oven.
I enjoyed snacking on it, but beware, it’s way more filling than it looks (it’s basically pure protein). I sliced it thinly and put it on a sandwich with avocado and julienned carrots, and it was reasonably tasty but a bit dry.
Derek said the flavor was pleasant, and not bad for a sandwich filling, but that the texture wasn’t quite right–too chewy. It would be better if it were a little tougher, like salami. It should tear. Also, he objected strongly to the name: “It should be called Seitan Salami, after all, it’s not that great.” He ate the seitan if I served it to him, but he never asked for it.
Other versions online include nutritional yeast, red pepper flakes, mustard seeds, and almond butter. I’m looking forward to playing with the seasonings to optimize the flavor.
Rating:
Derek: B-
Rose: B-
Kasha Varnishkes
My first memory of this this traditional Jewish dish is at Ratner’s in Manhattan… it was inedible. Why, oh why, I asked myself, didn’t I order blintzes? After many years, the experience (and awful taste) had time to fade away, and I finally got up the nerve to try making kasha myself. I discovered that kasha is sweet and nutty, but subtle. Nothing like the terrible dish I had at Ratner’s. The “Varnishkes” were originally a kreplach-type noodle, but for convenience packaged bow-tie noodles have become the standard. This recipe is very quick to make. It will be done by the time the noodles are cooked. This recipe is adapted from Joan Nathan’s Jewish Cooking in America.
Put a large pot of water on the stove. While the water is coming to a boil…
Toast over high heat for 2 to 4 minutes until you start smelling the aroma of the kasha:
- 1 cup kasha (whole? groats? what are they called?)
This will seal the groats so that there is a nutty, crunchy taste to them, a good foil to the soft taste of the noodles.Sauté in a heavy frying pan:
- 2 large onions, sliced in rounds
- 2 Tbs olive oil
When the onions begin to soften add:
- 12 ounces mushrooms, sliced
Saute until onions are golden and mushrooms cooked lightly. Remove vegetables to a plate.Beat in a small mixing bowl:
- 1 large egg white
Stir in the toasted kasha. Mix, making sure all the grains are coated.Put the kasha in the frying pan in which the onions were sauted, and turn the heat to high. Flatten, stir, and break up the egg-coated kasha with a fork or wooden spoon for 2 to 4 minutes or until the egg has dried on the kasha and the kernels brown and mostly separate.
Add and bring to a boil:
- 2 cups vegetable broth (or water + bouillon)
- salt
- freshly ground black pepper
Add the vegetables, cover tightly, and cook over low heat, steaming the kasha for 10 minutes. Remove the cover, stir, and quickly check to see if the kernels are tender and the liquid has been absorbed. If not, cover and continue steaming for 3 to 5 minutes more. While the kasha is cooking, cook according to the directions on the package.
- 3/4 lb bow-tie noodles
Drain the noodles, and combine with the kasha. Sprinkle with:
- 2 Tbs chopped fresh parsley
- 2 Tbs chopped fresh coriander (optional)
Serves 6 to 8?
My notes:
I think this is a pretty good once-in-a-while-for-something different recipe. Derek always turns his nose up at the idea, but gobbles it up once I make him try it. I think the recipe could use a little livening up with some “brighter” flavor. I might try adding cabbage for sweetness, or maybe red peppers or a fresh herb. The noodles add a nice textural contrast, but I find them a bit extraneous. I think the dish would be interesting and tasty even without the noodles.
Some info about buckwheat, gleaned from various internet sources:
Buckwheat was first domesticated in southwest Asia, and spread from there to Europe, Central Asia, then East Asia. Although buckwheat is generally considered a grain, it is not a true grass, nor is it related at all to wheat. It is, however, closely related to rhubarb and sorrel, and distantly related to spinach, chard, beets, amaranth, and quinoa. Since it is not a true grain it is gluten free, so people with gluten sensitivities can still eat it. Buckwheat grows very quickly, and can grow in cold climates, making it practical in places where many other grains will not grow.
While buckwheat is of similar size to wheat kernels, it features a unique triangular shape. In order to be edible, the outer hull must be removed, a process that requires special milling equipment due to its unusual shape. Buckwheat is sold either unroasted or roasted, the latter oftentimes called “kasha,” from which a traditional European dish is made. Unroasted buckwheat has a soft, subtle flavor, while roasted buckwheat has more of an earthy, nutty taste. Its color ranges from tannish-pink to brown.
In Asia, the flour is made into noodles (including soba). In Europe it is more commonly made into buckwheat groats, often known as “kasha”. Buckwheat is also ground into flour, available in either light or dark forms, with the darker variety being more nutritious. Buckwheat pancakes, sometimes raised with yeast, are eaten in several countries. They are known as blinis in Russia, galettes in France (where they are especially associated with Brittany), and just plain old buckwheat pancakes in the states. Buckwheat pancakes were a common food in American pioneer days. They are light and foamy. The buckwheat flour gives them an agreeably earthy, mildly mushroom-like taste. Buckwheat can also be served as a rice alternative or porridge.
Buckwheat’s beneficial effects are due in part to its rich supply of flavonoids, a type of antioxidant. Buckwheat also contains almost 86 milligrams of magnesium in a one cup serving. Magnesium relaxes blood vessels, improving blood flow and nutrient delivery while lowering blood pressure.
I’ve had trouble figuring out precisely what the term kasha refers to. I read somewhere that Kasha generally refers to toasted, hulled and crushed buckwheat groats. However, I have seen untoasted groats also referred to as kasha occasionally, and the kasha I buy always seems to be the whole groats, not crushed.
The raw groats look pale and are sometimes greenish tinged:
The toasted groats, look more toasty brown:
Here is what the unhulled, inedible buckwheat looks like:
Italian Salsa Verde
Salsa Verde is a thick, Italian, pesto-like sauce, but with just a little more boldness due to the slight bitterness of parsley and the brininess of the capers and lemons. It’s delicious on many vegetables and grain dishes, or stirred into a winter soup. I like to use it on anything that needs a little zing. I particularly like it on grain croquettes and lightly steamed green beans. This is a Cook’s Illustrated recipe.
Toast until surface is dry but not browned (about 15 seconds?):
- 1 large slice white or light wheat bread
Add bread to bowl of food processor with:
- 1-2 small garlic cloves
- 1/8 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
- 2 Tbs. juice from 1 lemon
Process until smooth, about 10 seconds. Add:
- 2 cups lightly packed fresh Italian parsley leaves, washed and dried thoroughly (about one large bunch?)
- 2 tablespoons capers, drained
Pulse until mixture is finely chopped, about five 1-second pulses, scraping down bowl with rubber spatula after 3 pulses. If your food processor is small you might need to add the parsley slowly. Transfer mixture to small bowl and serve.
Makes a generous 3/4 cup.
My Notes:
Lemon juice provides a brighter flavor than vinegar. The bread keeps the flavors from getting too harsh and gives the sauce body. The bread is toasted to get rid of execess moisture that could made the sauce gummy. You can use 3 cloves garlic if you don’t mind raging garlic breath. I’ve used only 4.5 Tbs olive oil and it was still good. The food processor helps achieve a uniform texture: if you chop the ingredients by hand it will be less cohesive.
Serve immediately for the best texture and color. Although it will not be as vibrantly green, it will last fine in the fridge in an airtight container for a while (maybe 5-7 days, need to check). If refrigerated, bring back to room temperature and stir to recombine before serving.
Using 1/3 cup olive oil, the nutritional stats are below. Using the full 1/2 cup of oil would add another 25 calories per Tablespoon.
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Serving Size: 1 Tablespoon
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| Amount Per Serving | |||||
| Calories | 64 | ||||
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| Total Fat | 6.2g | ||||
| Saturated Fat | 0.8g | ||||
| Cholesterol | 0mg | ||||
| Sodium | 84mg | ||||
| Carbohydrate | 2.1g | ||||
| Dietary Fiber | 0.6g | ||||
| Sugars | 0.3g | ||||
| Protein | 0.7g | ||||
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Greek-Style Garlic-Lemon Potatoes
This is based on a recipe from Cook’s Illustrated. The addition of raw garlic and fresh oregano give these potatoes a full flavor with plenty of bite. This is a great recipe for late winter, when you’re desperate for something fresh tasting, but none of the springtime veggies have arrived yet.
Heat in a heavy-bottomed, very large skillet (ideally 12-inches across the bottom) over medium-high heat until butter melts and foaming subsides, swirling pan occasionally:
- 1 Tbs vegetable oil
- 1 Tbs unsalted butter
Add to skillet, cut sides down (ideally in a single-layer)
- 4 medium Yukon Gold potatoes (about 7-8 ounces each, about 1 3/4 – 2 pounds total), unpeeled, cut lengthwise into 8 wedges (Halve the potato lengthwise, then cut each half lengthwise into quarters, then halve those lengthwise into equal-sized wedges. Each wedge should be about 3/4-inch wide. If you have smaller or larger potatoes, cut them into wedges weighing about 7/8 of an ounce each. )
Cook until golden brown (pan should sizzle but not smoke), about 6 minutes. Using tongs, turn potatoes so second cut sides are down; cook until deep golden brown on second side, about 5 minutes longer. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover tightly, and cook until potatoes are tender when pierced with tip of paring knife, about 5 minutes. While potatoes cook, combine in a small bowl:
- 5 medium garlic cloves, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 1.5 Tbs)
- 1-3 tsp. extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 Tbs grated zest from 2 lemons
- 2 Tbs lemon juice (from 1 lemon, or less). Do not increase!
- 2 Tbs minced fresh oregano leaves
- 1 tsp. fine salt (this is correct!)
- 1/2 tsp. ground black pepper
When potatoes are tender, add garlic-lemon mixture; stir carefully (so as not to break potato wedges) to distribute. Cook, uncovered, until seasoning mixture is heated through and fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle potatoes with
- 2 Tbs. minced fresh parsley
Stir gently to distribute; serve immediately. Serves 4 as a side-dish. You could probably stretch it to serve 6, but the portions would be smaller (about 6 wedges per person).
Variation 1: GREEK-STYLE GARLIC-LEMON POTATOES WITH SPINACH Follow recipe for Greek-Style Garlic-Lemon Potatoes, after stirring garlic-lemon mixture add 2 1/2 ounces clean baby spinach leaves (about 3 cups), and gently stir mixture again to distribute. Omit parsley.
Variation 2: SPICY GREEK-STYLE GARLIC-LEMON POTATOES In keeping with the bold flavors of the dish, this variation is very spicy. Follow recipe for Greek-Style Garlic-Lemon Potatoes, adding 2 small jalapeño chiles (or one regular-sized chile), cut into 1/4-inch slices (with seeds and membranes), to pan just before covering skillet in step 1.
My notes:
The zest is a must. With just lemon juice and no zest the potatoes taste sharp, shallow, and acidic. I never manage to fit my potatoes in a single layer, so I end up stirring them around frequently to get them to cook evenly. In this case, the suggested cooking times are only approximate. The salt amount looks high, but even using sea salt it doesn’t taste too salty.
Rating: B+
Derek: B+
Five-Grain Croquettes
Based on a recipe from Peter Berley’s The Modern Vegetarian Kitchen. These croquettes don’t have any herbs or spices, but they’re not at all bland. The sauteed vegetables remind me a bit of stuffing, but the croquettes have a fresh, simple flavor of their own.
Combine in a 3-quart saucepan over high heat:
- 1/2 cup white rice (sushi or jasmine or arborio are all fine)
- 2 Tbs. amaranth
- 2 Tbs. teff
- 2 Tbs. quinoa
- 2 Tbs. millet
- 1/2 tsp salt
- 2.5 cups water
Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes, or until all of the water is absorbed. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
While the grains cook, warm in a medium skillet:
- 2 Tbs olive oil (This amount can be reduced if you want. You just need enough oil so that the vegetables brown.)
Add and cook on medium-low for 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking:
- 1 cup minced onion
- 1/2 cup finely diced fresh or dried red bell pepper
- 1/4 cup finely diced celery
- 1/4 tsp. freshly milled black pepper
- 3/4 tsp. salt
Reduce the heat to low, cover, and continue cooking for 10 to 15 minutes, until the vegetables are very tender and slightly caramelized. You may need to add a tablespoon or two of water if they begin to burn. Lightly oil a large baking sheet (or two if you only have small sheets).
When the grains are done, add the vegetables to the grains and mix thoroughly. Set the mixture aside until it is cool enough to handle. If you’re in a hurry move it to a larger bowl or a tray for cooling.
Form the mixture into croquettes the size of golf balls. Place them 1 inch apart on the baking sheet and flatten slightly with the palm of your hand. Bake for 20 minutes.
Should make about 18-24? golf-ball sized croquettes, or if you prefer make 12-16? larger croquettes and fit them all on one tray.
Makes 4 main-dish servings if you have two sides.\
My notes:
If you don’t have amaranth, teff, quinoa, or millet, just substitute a little more of the other grains that you do have. I rarely have teff, so add extra amaranth, because I think it provides an excellent flavor to the croquettes. Even when I do have all the grains, I sometimes add more amaranth because it’s so tasty.
Berley serves these croquettes with a carrot sauce, but his recipe wasn’t great. I like them by themselves, or with a potent salsa verde.
I’ve made this recipe many time with dehyrdrated red bell peppers from Penzey’s. I just rehydrate them in some water before adding them in with the other veggies. I think I might even like the dehydrated peppers more than the fresh ones in this dish. Since the dried peppers are so tasty, sundried tomatoes might be a nice addition as well.
Every time I make this recipe I love it, but no one else seems very excited about them. Derek will eat them, but only grudgingly. My sister Hanaleah didn’t care for them. I don’t know why I’m such an outlier. Is it that no one else likes the taste of amaranth?
Rating: B+ (I would actually give this recipe an A- if anyone else actually liked it)
Derek: B-/C
Broiled Portabella Mushrooms
This recipe is from Moosewood Restaurant Low-Fat Favorites. I made it many years ago and Derek has never forgotten it. He occasionally suggests I make it again, and I’m finally getting around to it. Moosewood suggests serving the mushrooms over a bed of wilted spinach or other greens.
Turn oven to broil, and place an oven-proof pan on the top rack if the rack is greater than three inches from the broiler (I use my cast iron skillet). Carefully brush or wipe off any soil from:
- 1 pound portabello mushrooms (about 4 medium)
Trim the tough portions of the stems and cut the mushrooms into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Lay the slices on a baking sheet. Whisk together:
- 2 tsp olive oil
- 1 Tbs. light miso
- 1 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
- 2 Tbs. water (use less! one tsp?)
- 3 large cloves garlic, crushed
Drizzle the marinade over the mushrooms. Broil about 3 inches from the heat for about five minutes, until the mushrooms are browned and beginning to soften.
Servings: 2 main dish, 4 side dish
Spring Rolls
Spring rolls are delicious, healthy, fresh, kid-friendly, and most importantly, a perfect spring-time antidote to winter-induced “vegetarian mush syndrome.” It’s amazing how quickly spring rolls can be made. If I restrain myself, and prepare only a few items for fillings, I can have dinner on my plate in under 15 minutes. (Of course, depending on how many fillings you make it could take hours!) Spring rolls are versatile as well. Although they’re typically served as appetizers, I generally use them as a main course. Please don’t restrict yourself to traditional fillings. The few combinations below stick mostly to an east asian theme, but I imagine Indian, Ethiopian, and even Mexican fillings could be delicious. Think outside the wrapper.
If anyone has any creative filling ideas to share, please post a comment below.
Update Dec 24, 2007
I decided to make some vegetable soup for dinner, and started sauteing a leek and 8 ounces of mushrooms in a little olive oil. It looked so good, however, I was hesitant to dilute it by adding more veggies and making soup. So I added a little white wine and some butter, along with salt and pepper (sort of like Kaya’s white wine french style medley. It was delicious, but a little rich and strong tasting to eat by itself. Derek suggested serving it over pasta, but the veggies were done and I didn’t really want to wait 20 minutes for water to heat and pasta to cook. When eyeing the pasta, however, I spied my spring roll wrappers, and the solution was obvious. The leeks and mushrooms made delicious, if somewhat sloppy, spring rolls. The filling was enough for 4 large, quite filling rolls. Two made a tasty dinner, with a little raw tofu with yeast and soy sauce on the side. I think this combo would also make a nice winter appetizer, perhaps with just a touch of something fresh, maybe scallions. Next time, however, I’d cook the liquid down more so that the spring rolls don’t drip (ooze?) quite so much.
Originally posted May 9, 2006
Today I decided to try an allergy-free spring roll version for dinner. I made four large spring rolls:
- 1/8 cabbage, shredded, raw
- 1/8 cabbage, briefly sauteed in veg. broth
- 3 shiitake mushrooms and 5 crimini mushrooms, sauteed in veg. broth
- 1 Tbs. toasted sesame seeds
- 1 scallion
- 8 sprigs watercress
- 1 radish, julienned
- 1/3 avocado
The spring rolls turned out great. They were big and satisfying, with great flavor. I was worried about not having a soy- or peanut-based dipping sauce, but turns out they had enough flavor on their own. The essential ingredients for the flavor were 1) the sesame seeds 2) the shiitake mushrooms 3) the avocado 4) salt. It’s essential to salt the cooked mushrooms and cabbage well if you’re not using a dipping sauce. The other ingredients added crunch but less flavor. The only addition I didn’t like was the watercress, since it’s kind of stringy and is hard to bite through. They might be fine without the stems, and chopped, however.
These rolls are extremely low calorie, if I can believe the stats on the spring roll wrapper package~only 30 calories per wrapper!
A tip for serving: if you’re going to have people roll then own, then give them separate little bowls for any sauces you serve. Otherwise the sauce get’s all over their plate and makes a mess when they try to make their spring rolls.
Note added May 25th: I made spring rolls for Derek and his parents and served it with the carrot ginger dressing, and everyone enjoyed that. When Katrina came over we made a peanut sauce from my co-op days. I thought the peanut sauce was delicious, but that it did overpower the spring rolls a bit. I couldn’t really taste the filling as well. Also, the peanut sauce did not go with avocado I though. Also, this time I couldn’t taste the sesame seeds as well, but this might be because I didn’t toast them enough. They need to really get dark I think.
Rating: B
As written here, this isn’t a very spring-like recipe, but if you use spring carrots, baby green onions, fresh sprouts, spring mushrooms, and delicate spring greens you can make lovely spring rolls, truly deserving of the name. Also, they will be extremely fast to prepare. If you’re serving mostly cold or lighter fillings, then try starting your meal with a bowl of hot soup, like sweet and sour or tom yum or miso.
Texas Tofu Chili
Every vegetarian cookbook has a chili recipe. Some are interesting, some are bland, some are just weird. I’ve tried recipes with exotic ingredients like dried peaches, cinnamon, and peanuts. This recipe, however, makes a very traditional chili (ignoring the fact that it has tofu instead of meat). Maybe I’m biased because this is based on my mom’s recipe, but I like it better than any of the other chili recipes I’ve tried.
This is a large recipe, but I’d encourage everyone to make at least half the recipe. Chili freezes well, and it is way more versatile than one would think at first. One pot of chili can create so many different lunches and dinners. One of my favorite winter lunches is a quarter of a roasted butternut squash, topped with a cup of chili. The sweet squash and salty, spicy, slightly acidic chili make a great flavor combination in which the squash seems sweeter and the chili more rich and savory than either does alone. Plus, the red and brown and oranges together look beautiful. Another tasty lunch is to spread 1/4 cup of chili on a toasted whole-wheat tortilla, and combine with a cup of a vegetable-based soup, a salad, or a bowl of steamed vegetables with a tasty sauce. Chili can also be used under cornbread for a delicious tamale pie, or as an enchilada filling with a green sauce.
For the tofu:
- 2 lbs tofu, frozen, thawed, and torn into bite-sized pieces
- 2 Tbs. peanut butter
- 3 Tbs. soy sauce
- 1/4 cup tomato sauce (from a 14 ounce can)
- 1/2 tsp. garlic powder
For the chili:
- 1 Tbs. olive oil
- 2 onions (diced)
- 6 cloves garlic (diced)
- 1 green pepper
- 1 jalepeno or other hot chili?
- 5 Tbs. chili powder
- 1/2 tsp. chipotle powder
- 1 Tbs. cumin
- 4 cups of lightly salted pinto beans, in their own juice (1.5 cups dry? cooked in 6? cups water)
- 1.5 cups tomato sauce (rest of 14 ounce can)
- 4.5 cups bean cooking liquid (supplement with vegetable broth or water if necessary)
- 3 cups whole tomatoes or diced with juice
- 1 tsp garlic powder
- 1-1.5 tsp. salt
- 1 tsp. oregano
- 1 cup frozen corn
Mix together peanut butter, garlic powder, soy sauce, and tomato sauce. Work the marinade mixture thoroughly into the tofu crumbles, using your hands. Heat 1 Tbs. of oil in a large stockpot (8 quarts?). Sauté green pepper, onions, jalepeno, and garlic together. Add another 2 Tbs. of oil and add the tofu. Stir occasionally, sauteing until crispy. Add the chili powder, cumin, and chipotle powder, toasting briefly. Next add the pinto beans, the tomatoes, the rest of the tomato sauce, and the bean cooking liquid. Season with salt, garlic powder, and oregano. Simmer for 30 minutes. Add the frozen corn. For the best flavor let sit overnight.
This recipe is still not quite right: it seems I always have to fiddle with it to get the chili tasting how I want it. I’ll get it there eventually though. I asked my mom how she makes her chili and she said she uses:
- 3 cups of beans in their own juice (i.e. almost all beans with just juice filling in the spaces)
- 3 cups of frozen tofu prepared (about 1 pound of tofu)
- 3 cups of whole canned tomatoes and all their juice in the can
- 3 T of chili powder
- 1 T of cumin
- 1/2 tsp of salt
- 1 tsp of garlic granules
- 4-6 more cups of liquid
Update March 2008: I didn’t have any frozen tofu but wanted to make chili, so I decided to try the Chili sin Carne al Mole recipe in vegan with a vengeance. The introduction to this recipe provides a very precise description of the kind of chili they were going for: Rather than the bland, chunky, bean and vegetable stew that most vegetarians try to pass off as chili, they wanted “a dark red broth, large chunks of meat, accompanied only by a few bits of onions, chiles, and spices.” Now, that sounds like my kind of chili! Unfortunately, it called for seitan, which I also didn’t have, so I left it out and instead subbed in 1 cup of frozen corn, 1/2 cup of brown rice, an extra cup of beans, and 1.5 ounces of cashews (suggested by Katrina). I used a mix of kidney and pinto beans, and rather than vegetable broth I used the bean cooking liquid. The recipe called for 1/3 cup olive oil, which seemed excessive, so I just used 4 tsp. I’m sure it would taste much more rich with 1/3 cup though, and if I wasn’t going to eat my chili with cheese or tortilla chips or avocado I would probably use 3 or 4 Tbs of oil, since this is a big recipe. Or perhaps I would add a bit of nut butter or ground nuts, which would go well with the mole theme. I didn’t have a red bell pepper so used a poblano instead. The recipe calls for 3 Tbs. blackstrap molasses, which seemed like a lot, so I put in 2 Tbs. and tasted it and decided it was enough–I don’t like my chili really sweet. Some molasses is probably needed to counteract the bitter cocoa powder in this mole-inspired recipe, but 2 Tbs. seemed plenty. The recipe also calls for 1 tsp. cinnamon, but the cinnamon flavor wasn’t detectable in the final recipe.
The basic flavor of this chili was better than I expected, but wasn’t quite right either. Chili demands a very precise balance of the key flavors: salty / savory / tomato / chili / spicy / bitter / sweet / acid. This recipe has sweet and bitter and salty but not enough tomato / chili / spicy / acid. I added another Tbs. of chili powder, which helped, but if I made it again I’d probably grind a mix of chilis myself and add that instead of store bought powder. I also added 3 Tbs. dark red tomatillo salsa which added more spice, more acidity, and more chili flavor. It probably could have used even more salsa but I didn’t want it to get too spicy. Next time maybe I’d leave out the jalepeno, and add more salsa instead.
Clearly, by leaving out the seitan I removed an important ingredient in this recipe. I think either seitan or tofu or something a bit chewy, even if only a small amount, is essential for a vegetarian chili. Otherwise it just tastes like spicy bean soup.
This recipe made about 14 cups of quite thin chili. Isa says it serves 6-8, which sounds right to me.
