This recipe is also from Friendly Foods, but from the last chapter—recipes that won medals in the Culinary Olympics. I decided to make it because it called for soysage, which I was trying to figure out what to do with. Pickarski says that if you don’t have soysage on hand you can use Fantastic Foods instant black bean mix instead. I imagine homemade refried black beans would also work. Read the rest of this entry »
This is another recipe from Ron Pickarski’s cookbook Friendly Foods. It gets its creamy texture from olive oil, soymilk, and pureed potato rather than cream. Pickarski also adds miso for extra umami flavor. Read the rest of this entry »
I had some chard and potatoes that needed to get eaten, and found this recipe in Georgeanne Brennan’s cookbook France: The Vegetarian Table. It looked pretty decadent (lots of butter plus cheese and a bit of heavy cream), but Derek liked how the picture looked and encouraged me to try it. Read the rest of this entry »
This recipe is in the winter section of Peter Berley’s Fresh Food Fast, and I’ve been wanting to try it for a while now. Berley says that the salad is “all about the nuance of crunch. The green apple, celery, and walnut each have a different yet complementary toothsome quality in the mouth.” It seemed like a great winter salad, but I was nervous about making this recipe because Derek normally isn’t too excited about celery. I thought I might have to eat all four servings myself. I shouldn’t have worried though — Derek loved it. Read the rest of this entry »
When I was in Austin visiting my family I spotted a new cookbook on my mom’s shelf: Vietnamese Fusion Vegetarian Cuisine by Chat Mingkwan. I’ve always wanted to learn how to make Vietnamese food, so I asked if I could borrow it. My mom had already flagged the recipe for Vietnamese Coleslaw, and so I decided to start there. Read the rest of this entry »
I brought back a big stack of very fresh corn tortillas from Austin. The first thing I did with them was throw together some bean and cheese tortillas one morning. But something was wrong–neither Derek nor I liked them that much. So I decided to try Peter Berley’s Fresh Food Fast recipe for black bean tostadas with seitan. The black bean mixture turned out much better than my improvised version. Read the rest of this entry »
This recipe makes up the second half of winter menu number five from Peter Berley’s Fresh Food Fast. Last January in Segovia, Spain I had a bowl of garlic soup that was quite satisfying. It was a rich garlic broth with olive oil and little tiny tendrils of egg. I was hoping that this provençal garlic and herb broth would be similar. Berley’s head notes say this pungent broth (made from plenty of garlic and herbs) is a traditional hangover cure in southern France and Spain. He seems to imply that it doesn’t normally have egg in it, because he says “to make it more substantial I enrich it with egg and serve it over croutons with grated parmesan cheese.” I think it’s funny that he added more cheese to a menu that was already swimming in smoked mozzarella (from the bean salad). But, nonetheless, I followed his instructions to a T. Read the rest of this entry »
I asked Derek to choose something to make for dinner, and he picked this menu out of the winter section of Peter Berley’s Fresh Food Fast. It was a big undertaking! The menus in this book usually take under an hour, but I had to first make my own seitan. Even after the seitan was made, this menu took longer than an hour, mostly because peeling the shallots took forever. Luckily Derek liked the dish a lot, and I enjoyed it as well, so all that effort wasn’t wasted. Read the rest of this entry »
The lentils and potato in this stew create a hearty base, while the lemon, mint, and feta add brightness and lots of flavor. A bit of spinach adds more lovely green color, and more nutrients. Based on a recipe in the AMA cookbook. Read the rest of this entry »
This recipe is quite simple but extremely tasty, and quite refreshing. The vibrant orange of the salad adds some loveliness brightness to our otherwise grey European winter days. The recipe is based on a recipe in Peter Berley’s Fresh Food Fast, but I’ve modified it a bit to suit my own tastes. Here’s my in-progress version of the recipe. I’ve doubled the amount of carrots because carrot salad makes such nice leftovers, and I can eat it days on end without getting tired of it. If you don’t have a food processor and don’t feel like grating 2 pounds of carrots by hand, by all means cut the recipe back down. Read the rest of this entry »
I don’t remember the last time I made a grilled cheese sandwich. But we finally found cheddar that we like here in Saarbruecken, and I decided to celebrate by making grilled cheese. I didn’t want to make just a regular old boring grilled cheese, though, so I pulled out various flavorful additions I had in the fridge: jalapeno, sage, garlic, and lime. Read the rest of this entry »
When it comes to cookbooks, I have a “one comes in, one goes out” policy, which encourages a “use it or lose it” philosophy. I have some new cookbooks I want to buy, so I was perusing my cookbook shelf to see what cookbooks I could get rid of. In doing so, I realized that it’s been a long time since I’ve made anything from my American Medical Association Family Health Cookbook. Perhaps it’s time for it to go?
So I pulled the cookbook down from the shelf and selected a bunch of recipes to make. If the recipes turn out well I’ll keep the cookbook. If we don’t love them then the cookbook is getting gifted to a friend. I picked some recipes that I’ve made before but never blogged about, and some recipes I’ve never made. This particular recipe is new to me. I chose it because it looked strongly flavored. The kidney beans and rice are seasoned with a lot of garlic, thyme, and scallions, as well as a little allspice and coconut milk, plus one scotch bonnet (aka habanero) pepper. Read the rest of this entry »
I bought a bunch of carrots to make carrot halvah, but then Derek never got around to making it, so I decided to make carrot soup. I found this recipe for roasted carrot soup in Cook’s Illustrated “Best Light Recipe”. It calls for half chicken broth but I used all veg. broth. Read the rest of this entry »
I wanted to make sambar for dinner tonight, but when I went to rinse my toor dal, I discovered that it was full of bugs. I thought about trying to sub in some other kind of dal, but I only had masoor dal and chana dal, and I wasn’t sure whether sambar would taste right with either type of dal. Instead, I decided to make a new recipe for dal. I looked in my Madhur Jaffrey World of the East cookbook, and she had one recipe for chana dal with cucumbers. But then I looked online and I was won over by the picture of the chana dal on the dinnerdiary.org blog (her photo is shown at right). The dal just looked so creamy and delicious, plus the author says that she’s “struggled at times to produce an Indian dish that’s rounded and deep in flavour, which this definitely was.” Sounded perfect! Read the rest of this entry »
I’m on a quest to try all the recipes in the summer section of Fresh Food Fast. In the past few weeks I tried five new recipes:
- Pan-seared summer squash with garlic and mint
- White bean and arugula salad with lemon dill vinaigrette
- Chilled soba noodles in dashi with tofu and shredded romaine
- Warm green beans and new potatoes with sliced eggs and grilled onions
- Chilled tomato soup with shallots, cucumbers, and corn.
- Spicy corn frittata with tomatoes and scallions
Read the rest of this entry »
I love dal in restaurants but I’ve never really found a recipe for it that I want to make over and over. So when I saw a recipe in Salon for Dal Chawal, based on a recipe from a home cook, I decided to try it. Apparently dal chawal is dal mixed with rice. But I decided to skip the rice (Derek isn’t a fan of white rice) and just make the dal. But then I went to make the recipe and I realized that it’s kind of crazy. It calls for 1/2 cup of dal and 5 Tbs. of vegetable oil! I just couldn’t do it. Read the rest of this entry »
My brother gave me the cookbook Buddha’s Table by Chat Mingkwan a few years ago. I immediately started paging through the book, and left it open on my kitchen table. The next day as soon as I starting looking at the recipes the pages started falling out. I suspected that the special “layflat binding” was to blame, but when I called the publisher they assured me that they’ve been using this binding for a long time and have had no trouble with it. They said they’d send me another copy. They did, but two days after I received it (and before I’d made even a single recipe) the pages started falling out! I figured it wasn’t worth trying to get a third copy.
Although lots of the recipes looked good, I never did get around to trying them. Many of the recipes call for “vegetarian or mushroom stir-fry sauce” or other pre-made sauces, which kind of turned me off. First, I don’t tend to have them on hand. Second, those sauces are pretty much junk. Thus, whenever I wanted to make something Thai I always ended up using Nancie McDermott’s Thai cookbook instead. But last week I was determined to finally try the cookbook out. I bought some vegetarian stir fry sauce at the local Asian shop. I figured if I liked the recipe with the stir fry sauce I could always try to figure out how to make up a similar sauce on my own.
Derek and I are going to spend a few days in Paris next week–just in time for his 30th birthday! In anticipation of the trip, I recently bought the cookbook France: The Vegetarian Table, by Georgeann Brennan. The Vegetarian Table is a series of cookbooks written by different authors, one per country. In addition to the France cookbook, there is a cookbook for American, Japan, Indian, Italy, Mexico, Thailand, and North Africa. (When I lived in the co-op in college we had the Japan cookbook and I made excellent pickled ginger using their recipe._ One thing that I really like about the French cookbook is that it offers recipes using produce appropriate to every season. Mediterranean cookbooks so often rely almost entirely on vegetables that are local here only in the summer–peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, etc. But Brennan includes recipes that uses Spring vegetables, and ones that use vegetables that are available in the winter. Here in Saarbruecken we’re just starting to see the first of the Spring vegetables, but I’ve been stuffed up lately, and so I was craving hot soup rather than fresh Spring vegetables. I decided to try one of the winter recipes instead.
In my pantry I found a huge bottle of molasses with just 1 tablespoon of molasses still loitering at the bottom. I was trying to figure out how to use it up (freeing up pantry space), when I spied one last sweet potato leftover from a big winter sweet-potato push. I had a bunch of carrots that Derek bought yesterday at the Turkish market, and so I decided to make tsimmes. I was never a fan of tsimmes as a kid, so I didn’t want to follow a traditional recipe. Instead I created a more modern take, inspired by the orange-ginger sweet potatoes we made for passover and a honey and lemon glazed carrot recipe I used to make from the AMA cookbook. Read the rest of this entry »
Three Thanksgivings ago Derek’s cousin asked me which cookbook was my favorite. I wasn’t sure what my favorite was, but I told her Peter Berley’s Modern Vegetarian Kitchen was my most-used cookbook. I think she went and bought it because the subsequent Thanksgiving she made Berley’s recipe for sweet potatoes with orange and ginger. This year, my mom was thinking of making a dish for the seder that my sister had made up–a casserole made from sweet potatoes layered with slices of tomatoes and onions. But to me that just sounded weird. Maybe the tomato-sweet potato combo is good, but I just couldn’t imagine it. So instead I went looking for Berley’s recipe in my Mom’s copy of Modern Vegetarian Kitchen. Read the rest of this entry »
It’s that time of year again. As Passover approaches I try my best to do a Spring pantry cleaning, using up all the grains and beans that I purchased in the previous year but never got around to using. I bought a large bag of dry yellow soybeans at the Asian store when I first moved to Saarbruecken, and I suspect that the two cups still in my cupboard are from that original batch. I could have just cooked them up and eaten them with nutritional yeast and soy sauce, as I normally do, but I was in the mood for something different. I looked around on the web, but found very few recipes, and almost nothing of interest. The Farm Cookbook has a couple recipes for soybeans that I remember from my childhood, but the only one that I considered trying was the recipe for barbecued soybeans (kind of like baked beans). Then I found this recipe in the Modern Vegetarian Kitchen, by Peter Berley, for a risotto with black soybeans and spring white wheat. I subbed in my yellow soybeans for the black ones, and used farro for the wheatberries. The recipe also calls for fresh sage, but I used what I had on hand — fresh oregano.
The recipe says to cook the soybeans and wheat berries separately from the rice. Perhaps because my soybeans were quite old, by the time the soybeans were soft, the farro was extremely well-cooked — with the innards exploding through the husks. I didn’t have any vegetable broth, so I used bouillon cubes. The recipe says to use 1 Tbsp chopped fresh sage, but I put in more oregano, and then after the dish was cooked, I put in about another Tbsp of fresh oregano. (I think almost all fresh herbs taste best added at the very end.) The recipe calls for 4 Tbsp olive oil, but I think I used 1 Tbsp olive oil and 1-2? Tbsp butter. Berley says to stir in 1 Tbsp olive oil at the very end, but I tasted the risotto and it tasted so good I didn’t bother to add the extra olive oil. I think I may have also reduced the salt.
Berley says to cook the risotto in a 2-3 quart saucepan, and I used my 3-quart wide casserole pan. When it came to adding the spinach, however, it was extremely difficult to get it incorporated into the risotto. Even just adding small handfuls at a time, it kept popping out and getting all over the place. If I make this again, I’ll make it in either my big dutch oven or maybe in a 5-quart pan.
I really liked the combination of the arborio rice and the exploded farro kernels. Berley calls the combination of arborio rice with whole grains and beans “new wave risotto”. I actually think I might prefer it to the old wave. There weren’t a lot of soybeans, and you couldn’t really taste them per se, but they added a nice textural contrast and a little…heft. I’m usually not a big fan of spinach, but I actually really liked the spinach in this dish. Derek always likes spinach, and as expected he thought it was good. The first time I served it, he said it was tasty but he was a bit concerned about the quantity of risotto remaining. Berley says it makes 4-6 servings, but I would say six very large servings. Derek’s anxiety, however, was unfounded. We easily polished off all six servings. I actually wouldn’t have minded having it one more time!
I liked this recipe a lot, and I still had soybeans and farro left, so I decided to try another recipe from the Modern Vegetarian Kitchen: Spelt, black soybeans, and vegetable casserole. The casserole calls for carrots, mushrooms, celery, canned tomatoes and cabbage. The combination didn’t sound particularly appetizing, but I liked the risotto so I figured it was worth a shot. I cooked my (yellow) soybeans until soft, then added the farro and cooked until it was al dente. Meanwhile I sauteed all the veggies until they started to caramelize. (I used all the olive oil and salt called for.) Next Berley says to add the tomatoes and some of the cooking liquid from the grain/bean pot and bring to a boil, then simmer for 20 to 30 minutes. It seemed like a bad idea. At this point the cabbage was nice and crisp and caramelized, but I didn’t think the cabbage would be so appetizing after simmering it for 30 minutes. I did it anyway. In the end, I didn’t care for the dish that much. There wasn’t anything wrong with it exactly, but neither Derek nor I were particularly interested in eating it. It just was blah. We had one or two servings each, then I gave away the remaining quart of casserole/stew to a hungry grad student.
Update December 2010:
I made this recipe again, doubling it this time. I was out of farro so used kamut instead. Also I forgot to chop up the spinach, and the long, stringy pieces of spinach were pretty unappetizing. The dish was also underseasoned this time. Without enough salt and pepper it’s not nearly as tasty. Derek wouldn’t even eat the leftovers–I had to finish them off myself. I’ll have to try again with farro, chopped spinach, and enough seasoning.
I make Madhur Jaffrey’s sesame noodles all the time. It’s one of Derek’s favorite dishes. Tonight when I asked him what he wanted for dinner he said “chiliquiles!” but all my tortillas were frozen, so he went with his second choice–sesame noodles. I agreed, but didn’t tell him that I wasn’t going to make our standard recipe. I had recently come across a recipe for cold sesame noodles from Nancie McDermott’s Quick and Easy Chinese: 70 Everyday Recipes. I really like McDermott’s Real Vegetarian Thai cookbook, so I decided to give it a try. Read the rest of this entry »
Many years ago Katrina and Dan shared some of these nuts with us. Derek immediately fell in love. The recipe is originally from the book party nuts! by Sally Sampson. We’ll probably be trying out some more of her recipes shortly. Read the rest of this entry »
This roasted cauliflower dish was the second dish we made last week from the Second Helpings from Union Square Cafe cookbook. It’s similar in spirit to pasta puttanesca, but the base is cauliflower rather than pasta. Read the rest of this entry »
I’m bumping this old recipe because I finally, after many years of failed attempts, flipped a hashbrown without breaking it into pieces. I did not use my mother’s technique, which involves a metal spatula. Instead, I did it by tossing the “pancake” into the air with a flip of the wrist. In addition to spurning the spatula, I used German potatoes (which seem similar to yukon gold) rather than Russets, and I wrung the grated potatoes in a dish towel to release some of the extra liquid. I cooked the hashbrowns in my 12-inch nonstick skillet. I used 1.5 tsp. oil and about 6-6.5 ounces of potato per hashbrown. There was still empty space showing between the grated potato pieces after I scattered them in the pan. I think that’s key.
We stuffed the hashbrowns with steamed broccoli and gruyere cheese. They were delicious, and very filling.
Originally posted October 4, 2006.
When I was a kid I always asked my mom to make me “hashbrowns.” She’d tell me to grate a potato, and then she’d make either a simple paper-thin pancake of grated, lightly fried potatoes, or more often a “omelet” filled with steamed vegetables and folded in half. I could never get enough, and neither could any of my siblings. Stuffed hashbrowns make a delicious (and healthy) breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Read the rest of this entry »
I made this recipe tonight and liked it so much I decided to repost it. It was originally posted on August 17, 2006.
I’ve often tried to make this sort of light/summery pasta dish without a lot of success. Unless I use a large amount of olive oil or parmesan in the past the dish has always seemed rather bland. But this recipe is light and delicious! This is based on a recipe from Cook’s Illustrated, but I cut down on oil and pasta, and increased the amounts of squash and seasonings. I give options for a number of ingredients depending on how rich, spicy, starchy etc. you want your dinner to be. Read the rest of this entry »
I finally found tempeh in Saarbrücken. I’m so excited! It’s a beautiful tempeh too: big and fat and covered in a soft white layer that looks almost like paper. I tried to take it off at first before I realized it was part of the tempeh. Rather than use the tempeh in one of our old tempeh recipes, we decide to try a new one from Peter Berley’s Fresh Food Fast. We chose one of the spring menus: charmoula baked tempeh with vegetable couscous. Apparently charmoula is a spicy Moroccan marinade. Derek was worried, as he claims not to like Moroccan food but I thought the combination of spices looked good. Read the rest of this entry »
For Passover this year I wanted to make Peter Berley’s spinach mushroom vegan tart, but I didn’t have enough time to figure out how to make a kosher-for-Passover crust. I did try making an almond, matzoh meal crust held together with butter, but it just turned to crumbly sand. Instead, I ended up making this matzoh spanokopita (spanomatzikah? matzokopita?) recipe from Gourmet magazine for the main dish. Although it’s certainly rich and cheesy, it doesn’t taste overwhelmingly rich. I call it spanokopita, and although the flavors are similar, it would need significantly more feta and butter to deserve the name. I simplified the recipe significantly, by using a stick blender instead of a stand blender and skipping the matzoh soaking and spinach squeezing steps. Here is my modified version of the recipe. Read the rest of this entry »
I have a recipe for Turkish red lentil soup that I like a lot, but today I was in the mood for something a bit different, and decided to try this curried red lentil soup recipe from Peter Berley’s Modern Vegetarian Kitchen.
- 1.5 cups split red lentils, rinsed
- 2 quarts cold water
- 1 large onion, finely diced
- 1 carrot, sliced
- 1 celery ribs with leaves, halved lengthwise and chopped
- 2 Tbs. unsalted butter or light sesame oil
- 1 Tbs. mellow curry powder
- 3/4 – 1 tsp. coarse sea salt
- serve with chopped fresh cilantro and plain lowfat or whole milk yogurt
- Combine the red lentils, water, and 1/2 tsp. salt in a 4 to 5 quart pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to low and simmer until the lentils are tender, about 30 to 45 minutes.
- Meanwhile, chop the vegetables and make the curry powder. Combine the vegetables, butter, curry powder, and 1/2 tsp. salt in a skillet. Saute over high heat for about 2 minutes until the vegetables start to brown. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes.
- When the lentils are cooked, add the vegetables and their juices to the pot with the lentils. Simmer the soup for 5 to 10 minutes, until the flavors have combined.
- Serve with a sprinkle of chopped cilantro in each bowl, and a big dollop of plain yogurt.
Berley’s recipe called for kombu but I didn’t have any so I just left it out. He gives a recipe for mellow curry powder in his book, which is a bit odd in that it calls for caraway seeds. It didn’t actually smell like curry powder to me, and the soup didn’t exactly taste curried. However, the soup did taste good with the yogurt and cilantro. It definitely needed the yogurt though–without it the soup tasted too plain. Derek liked the soup as well. He said he wouldn’t rave about it, but it was very good, despite the fact that he claims to “not be a soup person.” He liked the big slices of carrot, said the texture and flavor was really nice. Derek did add a bit more of the curry powder to make the soup stronger tasting, however. Berley’s recipe for mellow curry powder makes about 1/3 cup, and I made 1/4 of it, which yielded a little more than a Tablespoon. Next time I’d just go ahead and throw the whole thing in. Also, I’d add the salt to the curry powder to help grind up the spices, rather than adding it directly to the vegetables.
Curry powder, modified slightly:
- 1.5 tsp. coriander seeds
- 3/4 tsp. cumin seeds
- 1/4 tsp. caraway seeds
- 1/4 tsp. fennel seeds
- 1/4 tsp. black peppercorns
- 1 slightly heaped tsp. turmeric
- 1/4 tsp. ginger
- slightly heaped 1/4 tsp. cinnamon
- large pinch of cayenne pepper
Derek has been sick this week, and Katrina suggested I make him “comfort food.” So for dinner last night I made miso soup and oven fries. I know the combination is a bit weird, but Derek seemed to enjoy the dinner nonetheless.
This recipe for oven fries is based on a recipe in the Cook’s Illustrated Best Light Recipe cookbook. It’s actually not particularly light, but it makes very tasty, crispy potato wedges. For optimal browning CI recommends intense heat and a heavy, dark baking sheet. To get the insides creamy and smooth they recommend covering the baking sheet with tin foil and steaming them for the first 5 minutes of cooking. They say that russet potatoes make the best oven fries, but russets don’t seem to exist in Germany. Instead I used the standard German potato, which isn’t very starchy and has a very yellow flesh–maybe it’s akin to a Yukon Gold? CI says the russets need to be soaked to remove some of the starch, but I skipped this step since my potatoes didn’t seem very starchy. I also used olive oil rather than the peanut or vegetable oil they recommend, because that is what I have, and I don’t think it tastes “bitter and out of place”, as CI claims. I oiled the cookie sheet with only 3 Tbs. oil rather than the 4 Tbs. the recipe called for.
- 24 ounces of potatoes (1.5 pounds), scrubbed, each potato cut lengthwise and cut into even-sized wedges about 1/2 inch thick
- 3 to 4 Tablespoons of olive oil + 1 tsp.
- 1 tsp. fine sea salt
- 1/4 tsp. black pepper
- Adjust the oven rack to the lowest position and heat the oven to 475 degrees. Coat a large heavy-duty rimmed baking sheet (dark or nonstick is best) with 3 Tbs. of olive oil, then sprinkle evenly with the salt and pepper.
- Wash the potatoes and dry them thoroughly. Cut them into wedges. Toss the wedges in a bowl with 1 tsp. oil
- Arrange the potatoes in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet and cover the pan tightly with tin foil. Bake for five minutes, then remove the foil. Bake for ten minutes, then rotate the pan. Bake for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the bottoms of the wedges are spotty, golden brown. Scrape the potatoes lose with a spatula, then flip each wedge over, trying to keep the potatoes in a single layer. Bake until the potatoes are golden and crisp, 7 to 10 minutes, rotating the pan if the wedges are browning unevenly. If the potatoes seem greasy, drain them briefly on paper towels, blotting away excess oil.
Serves 3 to 5.
Derek: A- (when they’re right out of the oven)
I’ve made this several times now, and I’m not all that careful about the technique, but the fries always turn out well. Depending on how fat I slice the potatoes, my largest cookie sheet (a rimmed medium-grey non-stick commercial half-sheet pan) holds about 1.5 – 2 pounds of sliced, small yellow potatoes. I’ve found that you can really pack the potatoes in, as long as they’re in a single layer there doesn’t need to be much space between the potato slices. Although 2 pounds of potatoes will fit, you have to cut the potatoes a bit too thick, and the wedges don’t crisp up as well, although they do have a nice, creamy interior. I’ve reduced the oil to a total of 2 Tbs. of olive oil, and although Derek says they’re not quite as good as the original, if the potatoes are cut thin they still crisp up very nicely and taste very good–and they still seem greasy to me. I think a tsp. of fine sea salt is too much if you’re only using 1.5 pounds of potatoes. I use about 1 tsp. of coarse salt for 2 pounds of potatoes. Sometimes I briefly rinse the potatoes and dry them in kitchen towels, other times I’ve skipped this step. Without a side by side comparison, however, I’m can’t say how much of a difference the rinsing step makes for the German potatoes.
Next time I make these I think I want to add some spices along with the pepper, maybe paprika and cumin?
Derek likes these potatoes as leftovers, heated up in the microwave, but the skins get kind of tough and the insides not as creamy. I haven’t tried reheating them in the oven, but I imagine that would work much better.
I’ve also tried this recipe with parsnips and they also work well.
Fine cooking recipe: http://www.taunton.com/finecooking/pages/c00225_rec01.asp
When I was a kid my mom would occasionally make a vegan spinach mushroom pie. I’m not sure how she made it, but I always enjoyed it. In my co-op days I tried making something similar, starting with a recipe from Ron Pickarski’s cookbook, but it turned out bland and boring. Recently, when looking for something to do with a pie crust that had been taking up precious space in my envelope-sized freezer for about 6 months, I noticed that Peter Berley also has a spinach mushroom quiche recipe in his cookbook Modern American Kitchen. The recipe was even posted on 101 cookbooks, along with a beautiful photo, a rave review, and a discussion of how loooong this recipe takes to make. I decided to try the recipe, using my traditional, non-vegan crust rather than making Berley’s oat/sesame vegan crust. Read the rest of this entry »
The photo of the harissa spaghettini on 101cookbooks is enticing. Moreover, the recipe includes both greens and plenty of spice, so I immediately added it to my “to try” list. I can’t find that lovely tender dinosaur kale shown in the photo here in Germany, so I used chard instead. I made a few other adjustments as well, transforming this recipe from a Moroccan recipe to a trans-Mediterranean one. The pasta and chard and parmigiano represent Italy, the kalamata olives come from Greece, and the harissa paste represents North Africa. Read the rest of this entry »
This is my favorite version of white bean soup, at the moment. It’s a light soup with a thin broth, but the beans make it very filling. The fennel adds sweetness and a bit of crunch, and the rosemary adds a subtle forest aroma. I usually just throw this together, so I don’t have exact amounts yet. I’m guessing here, but I’ll measure everything next time I make it.
- white beans
- water or vegetable broth
- freshly ground black pepper
- radishes (optional)
- parmigiano-reggiano (optional)
- olive oil (optional)
- In a 3 quart saucepan, add 3/4 cup small white beans and 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil.
- Add 1/2 tsp. salt and a sprig of rosemary, reduce the heat to low, and cover loosely. Simmer gently for about 1.5 hours, or until the beans are almost soft.
- Add a cup of vegetable broth, or more water to the beans, 2 cups of very thinly sliced fennel, and a small onion, diced. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer for about 15 minutes, until the fennel is tender but still a bit crisp.
- Add 1 Tbs. of minced rosemary, and freshly ground black pepper. A nice garnish is halved or quartered radishes. They add a pretty pink color, and a bit of peppery bite to the soup. You can also grate a bit of parmigiano over each bowl if you like.
- Serve immediately.
If you don’t have rosemary, you can sub in another herb of your choice. If you use a bouillon cube, remember to reduce the salt.
If I already have beans cooked, then I’ll start by sauteing the fennel and onions and rosemary in a bit of olive oil, then add the beans and broth afterwards.
Derek said the soup was tasty, but it was a little too bland for him. He thought it needed “a little something extra.”
This soup doesn’t last too long in the fridge. It gets thick and sludgy and unappetizing. I try to finish it the day after I make it, or at the latest, two days later.
Update Nov 6, 2010:
I cooked 1 cup of a medium white bean in 4 cups of water with 1 tsp. of salt. The beans were just labeled “white beans” in German but I think based on the size that they were great northern. When they were soft I sauteed about 5-6 cups very thinly sliced fennel in a Tbs. of butter with one small red onion cut into thin rings. Next time I think I would use olive oil rather than butter. I added all the veggies to the soup along with another 4? cups of unsalted, homemade vegetable broth. When I served the soup I sprinkled about 1/2? tsp. rosemary on top of each bowl and let people add grated parmesan to taste. I thought the soup didn’t have enough beans. Next time I think I would use 1.5 cups of these beans, or just make less soup so there are no leftovers. Maybe with small navy beans you only need 1 cup, but the beans I bought were big enough that there aren’t actually all that many with only 1 cup. Also, I overcooked the fennel and onions by letting them sit a while in the hot soup. They ended up a bit stringy. Maybe cutting them into smaller pieces would be better–or at least adding them to the soup only right before serving. Even a few fennel pieces that were raw when I put them in (that didn’t get sauteed) ended up very soft. The broth was pretty good I thought, but Derek and my guests added more salt. I served 3 small bowls as appetizers, and then Derek and two guests both had seconds. There were about 2.5 cups of soup left.
Derek liked the soup. He even commented that this is one of the very few soups that I make that he actually looks forward to.
What are the differences between different types of white beans?
Cook’s Illustrated says they all originate from the pole bean, and taste very similar, but the textures are different.
- Cannellini beans (the largest at about 0.9 inches after cooking, also called white kidney beans) have the thickest skins, which keeps the inside of the bean creamy. Their flavor is buttery with a subtle mushroomlike character, and their texture is meaty and lush.
- Great Northern beans are a bit smaller (0.69 inch long when cooked), and have more tender skins and slightly less creamy flesh. Cook’s illustrated says they have strong mineral notes and their texture is slightly chalky and mealy.
- Navy beans (0.52 inch long) are the most tender and soft, but their thin skins slip off easily and contributed an almost chewy texture. Their flavor is nutty and sweet, and their texture is very creamy.
- Small white beans (not the same as navy beans) are mild and bland, with a chalky texture.
In a test of all three beans in their Tuscan White Bean Soup (January/February 2001), Cook’s Illustrated found that tasters preferred the creamy texture and larger size of the cannellini beans, but the great Northern beans tasted nearly as good. However, they say that the navy beans yielded too high a ratio of skins to flesh. They say that navy beans, however, are excellent in baked beans because the acidic molasses helps keep bean skins intact during the long cooking, so this is not an issue.
A post from July 24, 2006
White beans in a crockpot: I often don’t like how my beans come out–too soft, and falling apart, or still a bit tough no matter how long I cook them, or bland sometimes. But I cooked small white (navy?) beans last week and they came out wonderfully. I started out with beans I had just purchased from the co-op. I put two cups of beans in my crock pot and covered them with water, added a few cloves of peeled garlic and a tsp. of salt. I cooked them overnight on low. When I tasted them in the morning they were done, and the broth was incredibly flavorful. I was happy just drinking the broth! I had soup without adding anything at all.
Note regarding Cook’s Illustrated recipe for Tuscan White Bean Soup:
The recipe calls for pancetta, but for a vegetarian variant they suggest adding a 2 ounce piece of parmesan rind to the beans while they cook. I’ve done this several times and never detected any great improvement in flavor. Their recipe (to serve 3 – 4) calls for boiling 1/2 pound of dry beans in 6 cups of water, with a medium halved but unpeeled onion, 2 unpeeled garlic cloves, a bay leaf and 1/2 tsp. salt. This results in a slightly musty tasting soup. I suspect that the slow-cooked garlic (and perhaps the onion, bay leaf, and parmigiano too) adds to the slightly dark, funky taste that’s at odds with the light, fresh soup I’m going for. Also, for me 1/2 tsp. salt is not quite enough for 1/2 pound of dry beans. Perhaps the pancetta adds salt as well, which is why the vegetarian version ends up not salty enough?
The cook’s illustrated recipe says the best way to infuse the soup with rosemary flavor is to submerge a rosemary sprig in the boiling soup, then cover and let stand for 15 to 20 minutes before serving. I’ve never found that this adds enough rosemary flavor for me. I like to sprinkle minced rosemary or sage into each bowl.
The original recipe from January 2001 says soaking is not necessary, and the beans can be simmered gently on the stove in salted water. When I try this with cannellini beans they’re a bit tough, and many of the bean skins have fallen off. The updated recipe in 2008 for hearty Tuscan bean stew says to soak the beans overnight in salted water. Brining the beans allows the salt to soften the skins but keeps it from penetrating inside, where it can make the beans mealy. They say to dissolve 3 tablespoons salt in 4 quarts cold water in a large container, then add a pound of cannellini beans. Soak at room temperature, for at least 8 and up to 24 hours. It’s necessary to drain and rinse the beans well after they’re soaked, or the soup will be too salty. To produce perfectly cooked beans with intact skins they recommend gently cooking the beans at a near-simmer in a 250-degree oven. Cook’s Illustrated also says that if you’re going to add tomatoes to your soup, add them toward the end of cooking, since their acid interferes with the softening process. To make your soup more substantial, they suggest serving the stew on a slab of toasted country bread, drizzled with fruity extra-virgin olive oil.
Note added Nov 9, 2008:
I tried making the chickpea, fennel, and orange zest soup from The Complete Italian Vegetarian Kitchen by Jack Bishop. The soup called for tomatoes, but I decided to leave them out. I added the 1 tsp. of orange zest called for, but I couldn’t really taste it in the final soup, so I added some minced rosemary to each bowl for more flavor. In the end the soup was quite good, pretty similar to my white bean version. I think the white beans are creamier, so I prefer them over the chickpeas, but the chickpeas make a nice variation.
Make this recipe in the fall when crisp apples and tart cider are abundant. A very tart apple cider is what brings this whole salad together. In a pinch, plain apple juice plus extra lemon juice will do, but it won’t be as good. This is based on a recipe from the Rancho La Puerta cookbook. The author says that a cook named Jesus created the recipe, and Derek jokingly dubbed it Last Supper Salad, and the name stuck.
Although this recipe is called a salad, I more often eat it as a snack or dessert. Made with cold ingredients, this can be served immediately, otherwise refrigerate a few hours until cold. The texture and color of the apples will start to decline after just one day, however, so don’t wait too long to eat it. Read the rest of this entry »
I really love a good coleslaw. Not the pasty, suffocating in mayonnaise slaw that you find in a bad deli, or at a catered picnic, but the crisp, refreshing, jewel-toned cole slaw that’s always featured on the cover of Real Simple or Cooking Light. I particularly like coleslaws that include fennel and tart apple. I was trying to choose a dressing for a fennel/apple slaw, when I thought of using pomegranate molasses. I originally bought it for the barbecued tofu recipe in Vegan with a Vengeance, and since then I’ve been experimenting with other way ways to use it. It makes a nice tea-like/juice-like beverage when added to cold water. The resulting beverage is not unlike tamarind “cider”: a little sweet, a little tart, and a lot… brown. But no worries, the pomegranate molasses doesn’t mute the perky colors of this coleslaw. I really liked the pomegranate sweet and sour flavor in this coleslaw, especially with the added sweet and sour of the Jonagold apples from the local farmer’s market.
- about 1/6 head of red cabbage, shredded (10 ounces)
- one large fennel bulb (about 1 pound), sliced thinly (about 1/8 inch thick)
- 2 medium tart apples (about 6 ounces each), julienned
- 1 carrot, grated (optional)
- seeds from half a large pomegranate
- 4 Tbs. pomegranate dressing (see below)
- 4 Tbs. pomegranate molasses
- 1 1/2 Tbs. red wine vinegar
- 1 Tbs. olive oil
- 1 tsp. honey
- 1/2 Tbs. minced shallot
- 1/4 tsp. salt
- 1/4 tsp. ground black pepper
In the past I didn’t care for raw fennel–I found it generally tough. I recently discovered, however, that if you slice fennel very thin it’s not tough at all but deliciously crisp. Now that I have a mandoline (more about it in a later post) that makes getting thin slices super easy, I’ve been eating a lot of raw fennel. I never had the knife skills to get my fennel thin enough with just a knife, but probably a v-slicer or food processor, or perhaps even the little slicing blade on a box grater would work as well.
This salad is simple but delicious. I can eat about 4 cups of it in a sitting. Of course, it takes me about an hour, and I feel like a cow at pasture, but I enjoy munching on it all the way to the last bite.
Obligatory nutritional note: raw cruciferous vegetables have amazing detoxification phytonutrients, and red cabbage is particularly high in antixoidants including vitamin A and C. The volatile oils in fennel that give it its unique licorice-like flavor are also rich in antioxidants (and fennel also is high in vitamin C). And we’ve all heard about the amazing antioxidants compounds in pomegranates. Even apples (actually their skin) contain quercitins, flavonoids with powerful antioxidant and anti-cancer properties, especially when working in combination with vitamin C. This salad should really be called death-to-oxygen-cancer-and-all-other-toxins slaw.
Update October 4th: I made this recipe again, but I used slightly different amounts, closer to what my mom described in her comment. I only had a medium fennel bulb (8 ounces julienned), and one large (8 ounce) apple. I used the seeds from a whole pomegranate, and one 4 ounce carrot. I liked the salad a lot, although I wouldn’t have minded a tad more fennel and apple. Maybe I’ll switch the recipe to call for equal amounts (10 ounces) of cabbage, fennel, and apple. I used 4 Tbs. of dressing, and thought it was enough, although it wouldn’t have been bad with one more Tablespoon. Since the dressing recipe makes a bit too much, if you don’t want extra dressing you might want to cut the recipe by 2/3:
- 2 1/2 Tbs pomegranate molasses
- 1 Tbs. red wine vinegar (or other vinegar)
- 2 tsp. olive oil
- 2/3 tsp. honey
- 1 tsp. minced shallt
- 1/6 tsp. salt
- 1/6 tsp. black pepper
Derek and I both rated this version a B+, but I left the pomegranate seeds out of Derek’s, since (like my Dad), he says they hurt his teeth. I forgot to measure, but I think the recipe made over 8 cups of salad, maybe even 12 cups.